How to Clean and Lube a Motorcycle Chain

Your chain does more work than almost any other part of the bike. Every bit of power from the engine goes through it to the rear wheel, thousands of times a minute, in dust, rain and heat. Ten minutes of care every week or two keeps it quiet, smooth and alive for far longer.

It is also one of the easiest jobs to do yourself. This guide shows you how to clean and lube a motorcycle chain properly, how often to do it and how to know when the chain has had enough.

Why chain care matters

A chain is a string of small metal links, pins and rollers. Dirt acts like sandpaper between those parts, and a dry chain wears much faster than a clean, lubricated one. A worn chain also wears out the sprockets, and replacing a chain and both sprockets together costs far more than a can of lube.

• Smoother ride: a clean, oiled chain transfers power with less noise and less jerk.
• Longer life: chains and sprockets last much longer when they are looked after.
• Safety: a badly worn or rusty chain can snap or jump the sprocket, and that can lock the rear wheel or damage the engine casing.

What you need

Browse our maintenance range, including Liqui Moly and Putoline care products.

Step by step: clean and lube

1. Warm the chain. Ride for a few minutes. A slightly warm chain lets cleaner and lube work better.
2. Park safely. Put the bike on a stand, in neutral, on firm level ground, with the engine off. Make sure the rear wheel can turn freely.
3. Protect the wheel and brake. Keep cleaner and lube off the rear tyre and brake disc. A rag held behind the chain helps.
4. Spray the cleaner. Apply it along the chain as you turn the wheel by hand until the whole chain is wet.
5. Brush it. Scrub the top, bottom and sides. Rotate the wheel and keep brushing until the chain looks clean.
6. Wipe it clean. Use a clean rag to remove dirt and cleaner, turning the wheel as you go. Let it dry for a few minutes.
7. Apply the lube. Spray a thin, even line on the inside of the lower run of the chain while turning the wheel slowly, so the lube works outwards as the chain moves.
8. Let it settle. Wait ten to fifteen minutes so the lube soaks in.
9. Wipe off the excess. Remove any extra from the outer plates. Excess lube flings off at speed and collects dirt.

How often should you do it?

• Lube: roughly every 500 to 1,000 km, and after every wet ride.
• Clean: roughly every 1,000 to 2,000 km, or sooner if the chain looks gritty or has black paste on it.
• After a monsoon ride or dusty trip: clean and lube as soon as you can.

Always check your owner's manual, as the intervals depend on your bike and chain type. Riders on dirt, dust or in heavy rain should go on the shorter side.

Check the slack

A chain that is too tight strains the gearbox and sprocket bearings. A chain that is too loose can jump off. Check the slack at the middle of the lower run and compare it with the figure in your manual. If it is outside the range, adjust it according to the manual or visit a workshop.

Signs your chain needs replacing

1. Stiff or kinked links. A link that does not bend freely will wear its neighbours.
2. Rust that does not clean off. Surface rust cleans away, but deep rust weakens the links.
3. Uneven slack. If the chain is tight in some spots and loose in others, it is stretched.
4. Hooked or shark fin sprocket teeth. The teeth should be symmetrical, not hooked.
5. A chain that you cannot keep adjusted. If it keeps stretching to the end of the adjustment, it is worn out.

Always replace the chain and both sprockets as a set. Fitting a new chain on old sprockets wears the new chain quickly.

Dry lube or wet lube?

• Wet lube: sticks well and lasts longer in rain, but attracts dust and needs more cleaning.
• Dry or wax based lube: stays cleaner in dusty conditions, but may need more frequent application.
• Seal friendly: if you have an O ring or X ring chain, choose a lube that says it is safe for seals.

Common mistakes

1. Lubing a dirty chain. Lube on top of grit makes a grinding paste.
2. Using too much lube. It flings onto the wheel and your rear tyre.
3. Lubing the wrong side. The inside of the lower run lets centrifugal force carry the lube into the links.
4. Cleaning with petrol. It can damage seals and leave the chain dry.
5. Ignoring the sprockets. Clean them too and check the teeth.

Frequently asked questions