Choosing a Riding Jacket: Mesh, Waterproof or Leather?

A normal jacket gives way the moment you slide on tarmac. A riding jacket is built for exactly that moment. It uses tough fabric that resists abrasion, armour over the joints that take the hits and a fit that keeps everything where it belongs. Choosing between mesh, waterproof and leather comes down to where you ride, when you ride and how much heat and rain you have to live with.

This guide breaks down the three types, explains protector ratings in plain language and shows you how to tell if a jacket really fits.

Mesh jackets

Mesh panels let air flow straight through, which is a big deal in an Indian summer. Good mesh jackets still use abrasion resistant fabric and come with armour, so you stay cooler without giving up protection.

• Best for: hot weather, city riding and short to medium trips.
• Watch for: very little rain protection. Some models include a removable waterproof liner you can add when the weather turns.

See mesh jackets.

Waterproof and all season jackets

These use a waterproof membrane, often with a thermal liner you can remove. They suit touring, monsoon riding and cooler hills where the weather changes through the day.

• Best for: touring, rain and mixed weather.
• Watch for: they can run warm in peak summer, so look for vents on the chest, back and arms.

See waterproof jackets and our monsoon riding gear guide.

Leather jackets

Leather has excellent abrasion resistance, ages well and has a classic look. It is the traditional choice for sport riding. It is also heavy, hot in the heat and needs a little care to stay supple.

Side by side

Check the protection, not just the look

This is where two jackets that look the same can be very different.

• Armour. At the very least, look for shoulder and elbow protectors, plus a back protector or a pocket that can take one. Protectors tested to the European EN 1621 standard carry a CE mark.
• Level 1 and Level 2. Level 2 absorbs more impact force. Level 1 is lighter and more flexible. Either is far better than no armour at all.
• Back protector. A foam insert in the back pocket is a start, but a proper back protector gives much better cover for your spine.
• Fabric and stitching. Ask what the outer shell is made of and how it is stitched. Seams that split in a slide defeat the armour inside.
• Armour position. It should sit over your shoulders and elbows when you ride, not slip down your arm.

Get the fit right

1. Wear the jacket and zip it up. It should feel snug, not tight, and the armour should sit over your joints.
2. Raise your arms as if you were holding the handlebar. The sleeves should not ride far up your arm.
3. Bend forward. The back of the jacket should cover your lower back, not ride up.
4. Check there is room for a thin layer underneath on cooler days, but not so much room that the jacket flaps.
5. Try the adjusters at the waist, cuffs and upper arms. They help you fine tune the fit.
6. Move around for a few minutes. Armour that shifts on the move needs a smaller size or a better adjuster.

Think about the seasons

• Summer: mesh with vents, light colours and a removable liner.
• Monsoon: a waterproof layer, either built in or worn over mesh, plus rain pants and waterproof gloves.
• Winter and hills: a waterproof jacket with a thermal liner, and a layer underneath.

Be seen

Bright panels and reflective trim make a real difference at dusk and at night. A dark jacket with reflective strips is better than a dark jacket with none, and a bright colour is better still. Being seen early gives other drivers more time to react.

Looking after your jacket

• Remove armour before washing and follow the care label.
• Do not use harsh detergents or heat on waterproof membranes.
• Treat leather with a suitable conditioner a few times a year.
• Dry it naturally, out of direct sunlight.
• Replace armour that is cracked, hardened or compressed after a crash.

Frequently asked questions